As gathers do not work well on my body and more tailored clothes with a definite waist feel better, I wasn’t sure if this pattern was for me. However, I love this flowing style on other people, so I thought this would be a fantastic opportunity to sew something out of my comfort zone.

The pattern suggests lawn, and I just happened to have two metres of this gorgeous hand printed cotton lawn from Pakistan. I decided to make a size M which meant I would not have enough fabric, especially as the width was only 45”. Until I am taller than my fabric and yarn pile, I have a self-inflicted ban not to buy anymore, so I had to make it work!

Until I am taller than my fabric and yarn pile, I have a self-inflicted ban not to buy anymore, so I had to make it work!

Pattern Tetris and adaption began. I made the sleeves quite a bit shorter and cut them across the grain. I opted for a short skirt and decided to line the bodice with some red cotton, which worked well. Amazingly, I could make my own bias binding from the fabric.

At first, I gathered the skirt and hand tacked it to the bodice. I was not a fan of the gathers, so I looked at a vintage Dior pattern for inspiration. I made six box pleats at the front, back and sides and four symmetrical pleats at the front and back, which gave the skirt a shape I preferred. I tried on the dress and really did not like the shape. I took more inspiration from Dior and decided to create a waist. I added two ties in the sides seams, which are tired at the back, which gave the dress a better fit for me.

If I make this pattern again, I will make a smaller size (the medium is 40’’ at the waist). I would definitely use a light fabric – I think it would be stunning in georgette. I think it makes a fun beach dress, so I gave it a test in the Margate North Sea!

Say hi to Jayne on Instagram craft.i.lee

Buy your copy of Love Sewing Issue 114, including this gorgeous pattern and much more!

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