Learn to Sew Part 3: Patch Pocket Denim Skirt

by Bethany Armitage

Welcome to Part 3 of our Learn to Sew series! Today we're building on our skills to create a classic skirt.

FIND THE FULL SERIES HERE

This chic A-line skirt is given an eye-catching twist with its large patch pockets.

You Will Need

  • 1.5-2m medium-weight woven fabric such as cotton or denim
  • 50cm medium-weight fusible interfacing
  • 9” concealed zipper
  • co-ordinating thread
  • Pattern templates

How to Choose Fabric

This pattern calls for a medium-weight woven fabric, but what does that mean for you? How do you find something that will work for this skirt? Don't worry, it's pretty straightforward!

Here's our handy guide to matching dressmaking fabrics to sewing patterns!

Not sure where to go to buy good-quality fabric? Check out our sewing shop directory where you'll be able to find a whole range of fabulous online dressmaking shops.

Your Pattern Templates

Need a refresher on working with PDF patterns? Take a look back at parts 1 and 2 of this series.

Pattern Notes

Seam allowance of 1.5cm is included unless otherwise stated.
Finish all raw edges with a zigzag stitch or on an overlocker

Sizing

Layplans

Start Sewing

1

Sew the darts in the front and back skirt. Press towards the side seams.

Expert Guide: How to Sew Darts

2

Sew a gathering stitch along the long curved edge of the pocket piece using a 1cm seam allowance. Pull the gathering stitches gently to help achieve an even 1cm turn on the edge of the pocket. Press in position.

Tips for Sewing Gathers

Sewing a gather is super simple in its basic form like this - you simply sew a line of stitching and then pull on it to make the fabric gather up into little folds!

For top tips and expert advice for sewing gathers in your dressmaking projects, check out this must-have guide from Elisalex de Castro Peake.

3

Neaten the longest curved edge of the pocket facing. Place the facing and pocket RST, sew the upper curve with a 1cm seam. Trim, turn and press the facing to the WS. Press and top-stitch the edge.

4

Pin both pockets on the skirt front and top-stitch in place around the long curved edges.

Top Tip!

Using a machine foot with a stitching guide is a great way to achieve perfect topstitching every time. You can position the plastic guide at the seam line and position your needle to stitch alongside at an even distance.
Blind hem foot, £17 www.janome.com

5

With RST, attach the front skirt to the back skirt pieces at the side seams using a 1.5cm seam allowance. Press seams open.

6

Apply interfacing to the waistband facing pieces.

7

Sew two back waistband facing pieces to a front piece at the side seams with RST. Press the seams open.

8

Pin the waist and facing RST and sew the upper edge with a 1cm seam allowance. Press the seam open.

How to Sew a Zip

Inserting a zipper can be daunting but don't worry - you can tackle it when you take it one step at a time! Find our beginner's guide to sewing zips here.

9

Keeping the waistband facing out of the way, pin the zip at centre back. The top stopper should sit just below the waist seam. Hand-tack, then sew with a zipper foot. Repeat on the other side, aligning the top edge.

10

Finish centre back seam by arranging the skirt RST and continuing from the base of the zipper down to the hem. Press seam open.

11

Press up the lower of edge of the waistband facing by 1cm. Flip it over so it is RST with the outer waistband, covering the zipper. Still with the zipper foot in place, sew a line of stitches down the sides of the tape. Clip the corners to reduce bulk.

12

Turn the facing through to the RS. Use a point turner to get a neat corner point.

13

Pin the lower edge of the waistband facing in place from the RS. Hand-sew in place to secure.

14

Press up a 2cm hem allowance, pin in place and then stitch, removing the pins as you go. Press to finish!