TOP TIPS: Expert advice for getting the most out of your yarn

Angela asks…
I’m never sure how I should block or press my knits when I’m finished. Is there a rule of thumb that I can follow?

Jo says…
The best thing to do is to check the ball band of the yarn you’re working with and that will tell you how to keep your knitting looking its best, but I know some yarn misses this information out. I like to test finishing options on my tension swatch first to work out what is best, but here’s a quick guide:
Wool, cotton, alpaca, linen and most other natural fibre can be wet blocked and can usually stand up to a gentle steam.
Fuzzy natural fibre like angora and mohair should be laid (or pinned) flat, sprayed with water and left to dry.
Manmade fibre like acrylic should usually be sprayed or covered with a damp towel and left to dry. A very little gentle steam can sometimes help but test on a swatch first and never ever allow the iron to touch the fabric.

Karen asks…
I bought some yarn on holiday and I’ve realised that it isn’t all from the same dyelot. Will it matter?

Jo says…
Yarn is dyed in batches and, even with the most accurate, there can always be minor differences in colour between batches. Of course we know that hand-dyed yarn can vary a fair bit from skein to skein, but the same is true of yarns which are dyed in factories. I recently found out that the weather outside the dyeing plant can affect how strongly the colour comes out! Each batch is therefore given a ‘dyelot’ number so you can be sure you buy all your yarn from the same batch. If you have an odd ball from a different dyelot, use this ball to knit the rib sections, collar and cuffs, button bands, pockets etc where the difference should be less noticeable. If you have several balls it can be trickier! If possible, knit the back and front/s from one dyelot. Then try knitting the two sleeves at the same time with the second dyelot and maybe add a couple of rows of a simple pattern like moss stitch (or a contrasting yarn) when you have to change batch. This will take the eye away from the change. If you have half and half dyelots, you could also knit in imaginary stripes, alternating the batches every 2-4 rows.

Jane asks…
I’d love to get the professional finish I see in my magazines, but my seams are always really bulky and I feel it ruins the look. What can I do to fix this?

Jo says…
I know that many of us were taught the overcast seam stitch when we learned to knit as children, but I find that I get a much neater look – and an almost invisible seam – from mattress stitch.

Step 1: Lay your two pieces down side to side, RS facing you. Anchor your yarn in the LH piece and then in the RH piece.

Step 2: Look for the bar that runs between the edge stitch and the second stitch from the edge. Run your darning needle behind this bar, from bottom to top.

Step 3: Repeat Step 2 on the RH piece, then back to the left, then the right again for a few stitches, leaving the working yarn loose.

Step 4: Pull the working yarn tight. This will ‘zip’ the two sides together, leaving an almost invisible seam. Continue working in this manner until seam is complete.

Dawn asks…
I’ve seen the perfect pattern for a new jumper but it’s knitted in wool and I’m vegan. Can I substitute for cotton?

Jo says…
Hmmm, this is a tricky one. One of the key differences between wool and cotton (apart from one being from a sheep!) is that wool has natural elasticity whereas cotton yarn usually drapes and has very little bounce. This means that when knitting, cotton can droop with time and doesn’t necessarily spring back in the same way after washing. However, depending on the pattern you’re knitting this might not be so important as drape can be an attractive quality. Look out for blends such as bamboo/cotton, viscose or linen blends and some of the new synthetic fibres make good substitutes. One of my favourite yarns for knitting garments is King Cole Cottonsoft – I honestly think this stuff is magic! It has a lot more “bounce” than most cotton yarns and it doesn’t tend to drop with wear like other yarns can do. Finally - as with any substitution but particularly animal to plant fibres, remember to swatch carefully!