The Sewist's Guide to Cupro
What is cupro?
Cupro is short for ‘Cuprammonium Rayon’, so as a rayon (also known as viscose) is a regenerated cellulose fabric – it’s the cuprammonium solution that the recycled cotton production waste is dissolved in that gives this fabric its name.
Once spun, the cupro yarn can be woven in different ways to create plain cupro, cupro twill and cupro satin, all of which have a beautiful drape and a silk-like quality.
Pre-Washing
Because cupro shrinks, you should pre-wash your fabric on a cool wash setting and hang as flat as possible to dry. When you first pull your fabric out of the machine it will be stiff and shrivelled up, but don't worry, when the fabric dries it will regain its lovely fluid handle. You will probably need to press your fabric well before you use it as it can easily crease.
Choose Your Pattern Carefully
Cupro can seem to have a life of its own and always wants to slink off your sewing table, so choose a simple sewing pattern style with minimal seams if you're short on worktop space.
Be Aware Of Stretch
It will also stretch out of shape easily on the bias so if you're making a dress or skirt with a curved hem let the fabric drop overnight and trim the hem back into shape before hemming.
Tool Talk
Use sharp scissors for cutting out or use a rotary cutter. It might be worth using scissors with a serrated edge as these will grip the fabric as they cut and avoid leaving an untidy edge.
No Snags
Change your sewing machine needle to a finer 70/12 size, also use fine sharp pins. Cupro will easily snag so don't be tempted to use an old needle or you may end up with snags and pulls on your garment.
Let’s Talk Interfacing
Use soft and light interfacing so it doesn’t interfere with the gorgeous drape of the cupro but still holds the shape you need.
What Stitch To Use?
Adjust your machine tension and stitch length and try sewing the fabric with smaller pieces before starting on the real garment. Use a straight stitch and for finishing the seams use a zigzag stitch or overlocker.
Sew It Yourself!
Find this pattern and much more inside Love Sewing Issue 114.