When we talk about Victoriana, we're referring to anything which is broadly inspired by the fashions that were in style when Queen Victoria was on the throne, from 1819-1901. This was a period of enormous change for those of us living in the UK, which was reflected in fashions.

The sewing machine was born in this time, as was large-scale industrial textile production, so people suddenly had a wide range of new apparel options to explore. Some of these were a bit wild and whacky, like huge bustles and enormous crinolines, which haven't really seen the light of day since. Other elements however, such as puffy sleeves, high necklines and dramatic drapery have fed into our daily fashion cycles regularly ever since.

Remember the fitted bodices and full skirts of Laura Ashley dresses in the 1980s? Victoriana. How about the black silk and lace looks of the early 90s? Yep, you guessed it - Victoriana. So many of today's trendy substyles are taking inspiration from the 19th Century too - whether that's the full-length floral dresses of cottagecore or the button-up blouses of dark academia, we're proving once again that fashion always comes around again.


Elements of Victoriana to Inspire Your Sewing

There are several key features of Victorian fashion which I think are really timeless, and can be incorporated into everyone's dressmaking repertoire. Some of these require you to choose a particular pattern that already has these elements, but others can be incorporated into any style.


1

Firm Foundations

Forget what's on the surface for a minute; Victorian fashion started from the foundation garments, and so should your dressmaking. Most of us don't wear a corset or petticoats any more, but think about what you will wear under your dress before you even begin. Which bra will you be reaching for? Will you want to wear this with tights? Will you need a slip?

Fashion plate, 1857-59

2

Statement Sleeves

Sleeve shapes had a wild ride in the 19th Century! They were by turns slim and puffy, structured and flowy...you name it, the Victorians tried it with their sleeves! This means there's a wonderful variety of Victorian sleeve styles to try with your sewing. Historical Sewing has a fascinating blog post about sleeve shapes in just the 1980s which dives into this in detail. While you might not want to go quite as far as the largest leg-o-mutton sleeves of the Victorian era, you can certainly give yourself permission to turn up the volume on your sleeve poof just a little! Check out our puff sleeve sewing masterclass for our top tips.


3

Fabric Choice

Fabric choice plays a key part in any sewing project. The Victorian era was a time before manmade fabrics such as polester or viscose, but that's not to say there weren't innovations. Silk was everywhere - particularly weighted silk, which is silk that has undergone a chemical process to give it more body and stiffness. Developments in manufacturing also made pretty printed and jacquard fabrics much more accessible to the middle and working class women of the day. Why not take a look at some historical fashion plates for inspiration for your next fabric shopping trip?

Fashion plate dated 1893-94

4

Handwork

Although the sewing machine had been invented, hand-finishing was still very common in Victorian dressmaking; and we can learn a thing or two from these sewists! I know it can be tempting to do everything on a machine, but there are some tasks which are better - and sometimes even quicker - when worked by hand! Next time you're sewing a fiddly collar on your machine, stop and think; would it be just as easy to pick this up and hand-stitch it in front of the TV?


5

Finishing Details

Decorative details were a must in Victorian fashion. While today many of our clothes are quite plain, Victoriana is all about embracing maximalism in your dress! Don't be shy to add lace, ruffles, pintucks, embroidery and decorative trim to your makes. Remember, the main reason those aren't fashionable now is that they cost so much to produce for fast fashion companies; you are in control of your own sewing and you can add as many fancy finishes as you like!

Fashion plate, dated 1884-87

Victorian and Victorian-inspired Sewing Patterns


Vintage Ruffle Blouse

This high-neck blouse pattern features a ruffle trim, making it perfect for a Victorian-inspired outfit.

vintage-ruffle-blouse-free-pattern


Skirting the Issue

Pair your blouse with this simple skirt, finished with a statement ruffle. It's a more modern and simple take on the super-flouncy skirts of the 19th Century.

ruffle-hem-skirt


Statement Sleeves

With its high neckline and voluminous sleeves, this dress has some clear Victorian influences, whilst still being wonderfully wearable.

high-neck-dress


Gorgeous Gown

You don't even have to leave the house to live your Victorian Duchess fantasy! Elisalex shows you how to make this stunning dressing gown - why not add a few inches to the length for some wonderful drama and swooshing potential?

ruffled-gown-tutorial


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