Sewing Masterclass: Wovens vs Knits

What is the difference between woven and knit (or jersey) fabric?

This is all about the way the fabric is constructed. In woven fabric, the threads run in a grid pattern at ninety degrees from each other - known as the warp and the weft, creating a very stable fabric. A stretch fabric is made from a single thread which runs back and forth, looping in to the row above and below it, which makes for a flexible, stretchy structure. Most patterns are designed to use one type of fabric or the other, but some can work with both types.

The words knit, stretch and jersey are often used interchangably in sewing, but there is a small difference. Knit and jersey are synonymous - they relate to how the fabric is constructed, the same way as you would handknit a jumper. This is a type of stretch fabric - but you can also create a stretch fabric by using stretchy threads in a woven fabric.

Free dressmaking patterns for stretch fabric

Free dressmaking patterns for woven fabric

Pros and Cons of Stretch and Woven Fabric

Pro of knit fabric: Using a knit fabric can simplify fitting alterations and can eliminate the need for extensive seam finishing.
Pro of woven fabric: Woven fabric comes in wider widths with gorgeous prints that may suit you if choosing a pattern size that has a high fabric quantity.

How to Adapt Sizing for Stretch or Woven Fabric

Check the amount of ease built in by comparing the body measurements and finished garment measurements printed on the tissue (located at the bust, waist and hip positions). When using stretchy jersey fabric you'll probably want a size where the finished measurements more closely match your body measurements. For stable knits and woven fabric, make sure to leave yourself 1-2" of body ease between your body measurements and the finished garment sizes.

Stabilising Jersey Fabric

With jersey you may find it best to stabilise the shoulder seams with a strip of cotton tape stitched to the seam line. This will help prevent the weight of the dress dragging down and drooping. Similarly you may want to use fusible stay tape inside the hem to keep it from stretching out as you sew. With woven fabric this probably won't be necessary unless using a very heavy fabric, but do take care with both types of fabric to stay stitch the front necklines of the dress to prevent the fabric stretching here as you work.

Choosing the Right Needle for Your Fabric

Woven fabric will suit a sharp or universal needle but you will need to stitch knit fabric with a ballpoint needle (with a rounded tip that parts the fibres rather than pierces them) or a stretch needle (for fabric with high Lycra and spandex content). Check out our sewing machine needle guide for more detailed tips and advice.

Love Sewing Issue 67 featured Butterick pattern B5898, which can be made in either woven or knit fabric.