Dressmaking Masterclass: Matching Seams Made Easy
Vogue 9202, which comes with this month’s issue of Love Sewing, is a great versatile dress you can wear anywhere. As this pattern has princess seams and a waist seam, there are many places where the seams need to match perfectly, as well as matching across the centre back zip. Matching seams can seem challenging, but I’m here to help. I’m going to show you how I match seams and how I match them through the zip too. I’ll be working on the back of the dress.
Order your copy of Love Sewing now - Issue 113 not only includes this beautiful dress pattern, you'll also find expert tutorials, must-read articles and endless inspiration from our team!
This post is sponsored by Janome
ALIGNING THE SEAMS
Stitch together the side back and back bodice sections and press the seams open. Stitch together the skirt back and side back and press open. Make sure the seams are accurate at 1.5cms as this will aide matching. Neaten the waist edges.
Place the bodice and skirt together RS to RS and carefully insert a pin through the centre of the bodice seam stitching and then directly into the skirt seam stitching. Make sure, as the pin comes back through the fabric, it’s still inserted through the actual seam stitching
Machine stitch just across the seam. Don’t tack. Tacks move!
Do the seams match? If so, pin and stitch the rest of the waist seam. If not, undo just these few stitches and stitch again. Press the waist seam open.
PERFECTLY PLACED ZIP
Before inserting the zip, fuse a strip of Vliesline edge tape to the centre back seam edges where the zip will be sewn – this is to strengthen the seam and support the zip.
Insert a concealed zip. Work on the right- hand side of the garment first. Place the zip so the puller sits just under the 1.5cm neck seam allowance. Pin the zip in place.
Close the zip and place the left side back to the zip, so the fabric is RS to RS. Match at the waist seam by placing one pin horizontally and one pin vertically.
Open the zip and again stitch just across the waist seam.
If it matches, sew the rest of the seam. If it doesn’t, unpick these few stitches and try again.
You now have to sew the remaining centre back seam. Pull the end of the zip tape to the right and pin the seam.
There should be a tiny gap of 2-3 stitches between the two rows of stitching securing the zip and the one row of stitching for the CB seam to give the fabric space to sort itself out. With the regular zip foot on your machine, so that you can get in close to the zip tape, sew the centre back seam and press open. Finally, sew the loose ends of the zip, tape to the seam allowance for about 2 cm to stop them moving around.
Why not try...6-in-1 Vogue 9202 empire line dress
About Alison Smith MBE
Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns, and you can also learn with her at one of her exclusive workshops. Find out more on her website www.schoolofsewing.co.uk
Find all of Alison's expert tutorials on CraftWorld here!