Secret Pyjamas! How to make a comfy co-ord from a simple romper pattern
MATERIALS & TOOLS:
Tape measure
Straight ruler
French curve
Chalk/fabric marker
Your TC2116 pattern - included with the print edition of Love Sewing Issue 113
FABRIC
We used
Minerva Core Range Dazzle Glitter ITY Silky Stretch Knit in green, £19.99 per metre
www.minerva.com
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Trousers
Measure your crotch depth by taking a tape measure and measuring the distance from the centre of your crotch seam up to your waistline at both front and back. Check this measurement against the pattern piece by laying the tape measure over the crotch curve on each piece and measuring to the waistline mark on the pattern piece. My measurements were 1cm longer than on the pattern, so I measured 1cm above the waistline and drew a line at 90º across. Fold the pattern piece along this line, ensuring you tuck the bodice part out of the way, ready for cutting out.
Decide on the width of elastic you wish to use for the waistband and add 2/8” – for example, if you choose 1” elastic, you would have a measurement of 1 and 2/8”. Lay front and back trouser legs on the grain on your fabric,measure this amount above the new waistline and square across in chalk. Cut out.
Sew the front and back together at the inside and outer leg. Finish seams. Press.
Turn one leg right side out and place it inside the other leg so the right sides are facing. Pin around the crotch and stitch. Finish seam. Press.
Cut your elastic the length of your waist plus 1”.
Overlap the ends of the elastic by 4/8” to create a loop and stitch to secure.
To create a flatter silhouette at the front of the trousers, we are going to use most of the stretch around the hips and back. To do this, pin the seam of the elastic to the back seam of the trousers on the inside.
Fold the elastic in half to find the opposite side and pin that to the inside of the centre front seam. The elastic should sit about 2/8” below the top of the trousers.
For the first 3” of either side of the centre front seam, pin the elastic in place without stretching either the elastic or the fabric. The idea is for this to simply hold the channel with a neat flat band.
At this point, stretch the elastic to fit the remaining length between the side front and centre back. Pin at regular intervals and ensure the fabric is evenly distributed.
Sew the elastic to the upper inside edge of the trousers, stretching to fit. We used an overlocker, but you can also use a zigzag or stretch stitch on the machine.
Turn the top of the trousers over to the inside to hide the elastic. Pin in place, stretching where necessary, and top stitch the elastic down using a stretch or zigzag stitch.
Turn the hem of the trousers and top stitch in place.
Top Tip!
Cut your trouser pieces at the selvedge edges rather than near the fold to make the most of your leftover fabric so you can squeeze in a matching top!
Top
Lay the front and back pieces on the fold. Because we are not creating a centre seam, this will create a looser fitting top.
On both pieces, using the same waist point as established for the trousers, measure down 4” and mark across. Either cut the pattern piece here or fold the trouser part out of the way.
Place a ruler along the shoulder line and draw a straight line across in chalk.
Draw another line in chalk from the top of the side seam up to meet the extended shoulder seam. The length of this extension will depend on how much fabric you have left to play with. Make a notch to mark the top of the side seam.
For the neckline, we created a scoop back using a French curve and a gentle boat neck at the front. Mark with chalk
Cut out your front and back using the new chalk lines as a guide. Sew front to back at shoulders, RST. Finish seams.
Turn and press a 5/8” hem around the neckline, starting at the centre back and stretching where necessary. Top stitch.
Overlock the raw edge of the entire side seam and sleeve edge from hem to hem in one go.
Now stitch side seams, stopping at the notch marking the top of the side seam/where the sleeve opening starts.
Fold and press the sleeve hem by 5/8” and stitch all the way around, making sure the side seam lays flat at the underarm.
Turn and press a 1” hem. Top stitch.
Waist Tie
Cut two strips, 4” wide in a length sufficient to wrap around the waist and tie at the front.
Sew the strips RST, leaving a turning gap at one side.
Turn, press, and slip stitch the opening closed.