Masterclass: Twin Needles
Using a twin needle for topstitching can give your handmade clothes a professional-looking finish that resembles the coverstitching you often see on shop-bought knit clothing
This post is sponsored by Janome
A twin needle has two needles attached to the same shank. It sews two rows of parallel stitching on the right side, joined by a zigzag on the wrong side that allows the seam to stretch. You’ll need to get a stretch or ballpoint twin needle for knit fabric. The packet will tell you how far apart the two rows of stitching will be – around 4mm is great for hemming. Check the holes in your needle plate and presser feet are wide enough for the needle so it
doesn’t hit them!
You’ll also need a second spool pin. Some machines come with a detachable one, others allow
two spools on the regular pin, or use the bobbin winder spindle – check your manual. Thread your sewing machine with two spools of thread, one going into each needle. Check your manual for any special instructions for twin needle threading. Set the machine to a slightly longer straight stitch length than normal – 3mm is good.
Top-stitch on the right side of the fabric so the straight stitches end up on the outside of your garment. Position the needle so it will go through all layers – as you’re sewing with the right side facing up, you’ll need to feel through the fabric to check it’s in the right place!
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