This month’s beautiful B6551 dress pattern from Butterick is a great, easy fit that’s perfect for summer. However, it features a mandarin collar, which can prove tricky to attach to avoid any lumpy bits at the front!

The collar is attached after the front and back have been attached at the yoke. A shirt collar should be attached entirely on the sewing machine, so let me give you a few tips.

As I am using a heavily patterned fabric with a black background, I have used a pink thread so you can see my stitching easily.

PREPARATION

Cut out the collar sections and apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the collar piece, which will be on the outside of the dress (the outer collar).

There is no interfacing required on the other collar piece (the under collar), which will be touching your neck. On the under collar, turn in seam allowance on longer curved edge and press.

CONSTRUCTION

Place the two collar sections RST to RST and pin at the CF to ensure the two pieces line up. Put the two collar ends together and check the ends match. If you are unsure of sewing a curve, mark the stitching line with chalk.

When you stitch the CF, the first few stitches should be at 90˚ to the folded edge of the under collar – this will make sure the collar looks perfect when attached.

Trim the non-interfaced side of the seam.

The front curves need notching to reduce the bulk.

Snip all along the back of the collar to take the tension off the seam edge. Turn the collar to the right side and press it so that the seam rolls slightly to the non-interfaced side.

ACHIEVING A NEAT CENTRE FRONT

The issue with all collars, or collar stands, is the CF edge. One side tends to stretch as it’s attached and then you end up with a lumpy bit at the CF. To try and avoid this, make sure the CF is pressed so that the raw edge of the neck seam and the collar seam allowances sit at right angles to each other.

Pin the collar to the neck edge. At the CF, ensure the seam allowances line up exactly, so the collar and the front opening form a continuous line. Pin.

Stitch approximately just 5cm of the seam just at each CF edge.

Is this sitting neatly and flat?

If not, just unpick and re-stitch. If it is sitting flat, check both front edges match and then pin the remaining collar in place.

The neck edge on this pattern does need stretching to get the collar to fit, but this is what makes the collar stand. Stitch. Trim the shirt side of the seam.

FINAL STEPS

Notch and clip as required. Press the seam allowance into the collar, using a tailor’s ham if you have one. With the collar facing, where the seam allowance has already been pressed under, the pressed edge should now sit on top of the stitching you have just done. Pin and top stitch.

Now top stitch the rest of the collar, aligning the stitching with the stitching around the front opening.

Enjoy making your dress – it’s a really quick, easy make!

About Alison Smith MBE

Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns, and you can also learn with her at one of her exclusive workshops. Find out more on her website www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

Mandarin Collar Pattern Ideas

• B6551 is one of the patterns included with Love Sewing Issue 110
• A mandarin collar and pin tucks give B6801 its sophisticated look
• V1704 features a mandarin collar with overcast edge

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