There has been a huge revival of interest in making bras and underwear in general over the past year. I’ve been teaching bra construction for over 20 years, and today there are so many patterns to choose from that cover all possible size ranges. Most of these patterns are PDF downloads, but as bra pattern pieces are small, it’s unusual to have to stick pages together.

Bras are not difficult to make, but they can seem a bit fiddly the first time you make one. Making a bra is no different to making any other garment: you need to look at the measurements, make your first bra, assess the fit and then tweak the pattern – just as you would on a pair of trousers or a shirt.

The difference this time is that bras need to be made in the 'real' fabric with the elastics attached to assess the fit, but more about this later.

CHOOSING A PATTERN

Before making your first bra, do a bit of research. The blog www.tailormadeblog.com is a good place to start as it looks at a wide variety of available patterns.

Also look at the shape of your favourite ready-to-wear (RTW) bra: can you find a similar pattern? Before you pay for and download the pattern you have chosen, just look carefully at the size range – are you purchasing the full-size range or is the size range split? As you are not yet certain what size you need, you could find that you have to purchase the next size range if the fit is not quite right.

The pattern I have chosen for this article is the AFI Exquisite Bra, which I will make in lace. This bra is a PDF download and comes in a great size range, from band sizes 28–48 and cup sizes A-G.

DETERMINING YOUR SIZE

In the same way that your RTW dress size may be diffrent to the size of your dressmaking pattern, the same applies to bra patterns. Each bra pattern will explain how to determine your size. In my three current favourite bra patterns I am three different sizes and they all fit!

PREPARING THE PATTERN

Once you have measured yourself and determined your pattern size, trace off your pattern pieces. You should have a back band, a cradle, a bridge and pieces that make up the cup. You may also have pieces for a power bar or sling and foam if the bra is padded.

The pattern pieces can look quite small and strange. The first thing I now do is to cut all these pieces out of calico – single layer, so you are cutting out half a bra. Place the pieces on the table in front of you in the order in which they will be joined together. Mark all the matching points with a pen or chalk. Stitch the cup sections together, pressing as you go and adhering to the seam allowance on the pattern, which is usually 6mm (check the pattern you have chosen). Join all the pieces that make up the band and insert the cup into the band.

Take your best fitting RTW bra and fit the calico bra that you have made over it. Match up the stitching lines of the cup and pin. Now compare. Is the band the same length? Is the outer edge of the cup, where the underwire is, the same? Is the cup the same depth? Is the cup too loose or maybe too tight? If it’s not right, try the next size up or down. This process is well worth going through to achieve a good fit first time!

THE FABRICS

Bras are made from specialist fabric and you may not find this in regular fabric shops. The back band is made from powernet which is a heavy mesh type fabric that stretches in both directions. The cups and the cradle do not stretch and these are made from a rigid or non-stretch fabric. This is normally a lace, but it could be a satin or a silk or even a cotton lawn, all these fabrics will have ‘give’ but not stretch. Bra lace is a specific type of lace that is hard-wearing, yet soft against the skin, sometimes the embroidery is on one edge and sometimes it’s on both edges.

The cups, cradle and bridge are also lined. For bra lining, you need a bra lining fabric such as a nylon 20-denier fabric or a rigid mesh. Both of these are thin, almost sheer fabrics. The bra lining will also stop a stretch bra lace from stretching.

As well as these fabrics, you will need:

- Strap elastic plus two rings and two sliders.

- Picot-edge elastic.

- Bone channeling into which the underwire is fitted.

- Pairs of hooks and eyes.

Once you have tested out your calico ‘bra’ and collected your fabrics, it’s time to cut out.

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HOW TO CUT OUT BRA LACE

The cups are usually made from a rigid bra lace. Bra lace is often embroidered on both edges, which enables us to have matching patterns on both cups. Lay the lace on your table in a single layer right side uppermost.

Take the pattern pieces for the cups and place the upper edge to the edge of the lace. Pay attention to any pattern in the lace – is a chunky bit of embroidery coning on a seam? Has a dominant motif been centred on a pattern piece? If possible, lay the pieces onto the lace as they will be joined together to give you an idea of how it will look when sewn.

Once you are happy, pin the pattern down; the bridge and cradle can also be cut with their lower edge against the lace edge, even if the centre bridge piece is shaped, but this is optional, as they don’t have to have a lacy edge.

Once you are happy with your placement and you are sure you have enough lace to cut the other side, cut around these pieces with a rotary cutter. This will give you a clean, accurate edge. If there are pattern markings on the cups, mark with a thread or a vanishing pen – don’t snip; the seam allowance is too tiny!

Take the pattern off the cup pieces and place the cut lace shapes to the opposite edge of the lace RS to RS, matching the pattern exactly. Pin and cut the second cup and cradle, but we only need one bridge. The next fabric to cut is your bra lining. This is a rigid nylon fabric and can be cut double.

You need to cut your bra pieces, plus the cradle and bridge. Finally, cut the back band from the power net, making sure the greatest stretch goes around your body. Again, use the rotary cutter.

BRA CONSTRUCTION

Now everything is cut, it’s time to sew. Bras are constructed on the sewing machine, not the overlocker. Put a new size 90 needle into your sewing machine. I use this size because the embroidered lace can be chunky, and the elastics are thick too. You need to make sure that the inside of the bra is smooth against your skin with no rough edges.

Join the pieces that make up the main bra cup (not the sling or powerbar, if there is one) right side to right side, adhering to the seam allowance on the pattern. A top tip is to start machining with a bit of paper or tissue under the lace to stop it from going into the dog feeds. Press the seams open over a ham and then top-stitch the edges of the seams down.

Repeat the process with the bra cup lining. Place the cup lining to the lace cup WS to WS matching and pinning the seams at the top edge under the top edge of the lining, pin and machine-sew.

To attach a power bar or sling (if the pattern has one) Pin the lining power bar to the lining cup and pin the lace power bar to the lace side of the cup, RS to RS, so the cup is sandwiched.

Stitch. Trim the seam slightly and press into position. Top-stitch the seam. Your cup is now complete!

ASSEMBLING THE BRIDGE

Place together RS to RS the lace and the lining and stitch across the CF. Turn WS to WS and press. Attach the cradle by placing bra lining to bra lining and lace to lace and stitch. Open out, press and top-stitch the seam.

BACK BAND

If your bra has a lace edge on the cradle and bridge, turn under and tack the seam allowance at the lower edge. Join the back band to the cradle. Press the seam towards the back band and top-stitch.

You should now have a pair of cups and a band.  Insert the cups into the band, matching as indicated on your pattern.

ATTACHING PICOT ELASTIC TO YOUR BRA

Set your sewing machine to a tiny zigzag stitch width 0.5, length 2.5. Measure the armhole seam and cut a piece of elastic at 90% of this measurement. Mark the half and quarter points on both the elastic and armhole. Pin the elastic to the armhole with the straight edge of the elastic matching the raw edge of the armhole and the softer side of the elastic uppermost.

Pin at the matching points and machine with the zigzag stitch just under the picot edge, stretching the elastic (not the bra) as you sew. Make sure the cup to cradle seam goes toward the cradle.

Set your machine to a three-step zigzag stitch length 1.5 and a stitch width to correspond to the width of your elastic. This is usually between 5.0 and 6.5. Flip the elastic to the WS – the picot edge should show – and stitching from the RS and, without stretching the bra, three step zigzag over the elastic.

If you don’t have a decorative edge to the cradle and bridge, repeat the process for the bottom edge as for the armhole.

If you do have a decorative edge, cut the picot elastic at 90% and pin to match the half and quarter points, making sure the picots show at the edge of the back band. Stitch in place with the three-step zigzag. This is easiest if you sew the back band from the RS and the lace section from the WS.

SEW THE BONE CHANNELLING

This is the tape through which the underwire is inserted. This is stitched to the seam allowance of the cup to cradle seam. Do not cut yet to fit, but start and finish with a tail.

Align one edge of the bone channelling to the stitching line and sew in place, close to the edge. You cannot get too close to the armhole, so just leave a long tail here.

Once this edge is sewn, push the channelling to the cradle and machine close to the second edge.

At this stage align the channelling at the armhole – it is stitched over the picot elastic – and secure both edges.

The bone channelling often sits on top of the bottom edge elastic, so don’t worry if that’s happened.

MAKING THE BRA STRAPS

Cut two pieces of strap elastic, 40cm long. Thread one end around the centre of the slider WS to WS and sew. Take the other end, slide on the ring, and feed the end up and down the slider WS to WS.

The end without the slider is attached to the front of the bra with a zigzag stitch.

For the other end: depending on your bra pattern, you will either

a) cut two lots of 6cm elastic and make a loop through the ring and sew to the bra back or

b) cut a piece of elastic that fits from the CB to the top of the back band and is long enough to make a loop through the ring.

Machine in place with a three-step zigzag.

ADD THE HOOKS AND EYES

The eyes go to the left hand back as worn. Push the CB of the bra into the slot on the hook tab and zigzag in place. The hooks go on the right hand back as worn – these are not easy to put on as the hooks get in the way! Use a straight stitch first and then a zigzag.

INSERT THE UNDERWIRES

Be guided by the pattern as to the underwires you need. You may have some old underwires from a discarded bra you could try. Sew across the bone channelling at the CF and cut off the surplus bone channelling. Working from the armhole, insert the underwire – make sure it’s the right way the shorter end to the CF.

FINALLY – CHECK THE FIT

Try it on. Does it fit? Are the underwires sitting correctly? Does the underwire need to be longer or shorter or wider? Is the cup big enough? Too big? Assess the fit as you would for any other garment.

If you are lucky and it’s just right, stitch across the armhole end of the bone channelling and snip off the surplus. Finally add a bow at the CF.

Don’t be disheartened if the fit is not just right. Treat this as your toile. Alter the pattern and try again until you are happy with your finished bra.

About Alison Smith

Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns, and you can also learn with her at one of her exclusive workshops. Find out more on her website

www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

Bra Sewing Online Video Course

Alison has been teaching bra construction for over 20 years and through the chapters of this video book, Alison will share with you her tips and tricks for construction on three different styles of bra.

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