What is Mosaic Crochet?

Mosaic colourwork takes its name from the classic craft of mosaic making, where colours are laid down in small tiles to create a pattern. In crochet, the principle is the same - but instead of tiles, you have crochet stitches! Because you are working with only one colour per row, the back of your work will be nice and neat, and there will be no pulling or uneven tension, resulting in a beautiful finished piece!

How Easy is Mosaic Crochet?

There are three main different ways to work mosaic crochet, but they're all very similar. You need to be able to follow a chart (have a look at an example below) and read the instructions carefully as you will be working stitches into stitches a few rows previous, over the recent rows, which is how you achieve unbroken colourwork patterns on your fabric.

Spike Mosaic Crochet

In this form of mosaic crochet, both sides will look virtually identical, so it is ideal for items such as scarves or blankets, where both sides are likely to be seen.
As with inset mosaic, this is usually worked using 2 rows of each colour, so the unused yarn can be carried up the side of the work, but in this technique the base fabric is rows of simple dc and the pattern is created by working longer sts (tr) into lower rows, working over the rows in between to create a spike effect. This often makes for the easiest form of mosaic crochet.
Many patterns include both a chart and written instructions. It is up to you which you follow, but if you are new to this technique, we would recommend following the written pattern, at least for the first few rows.

How to read a spike mosaic chart

If you choose to follow the chart, read it from bottom to top, right to left, (left to right if you are left-handed).
The first and last stitches of each row are always dc and indicate the colour you will be using for this whole row as well as the following WS row. You do not change colours within each row - the colours on the chart are there only to give you an idea of how the piece should look.
Only RS (odd numbered) rows are shown on the chart. On all WS (even numbered) rows, dc across.
To join new colours, or change working colour, simply pull up a loop (pul) in new colour.

Special stitches for spike mosaic crochet

Spike Treble 3 down (SPtr3d): Working over stitches from previous 2 rows, treble into the stitch 3 rows down.

Spike Mosaic Tip
For a neat starting edge, work the first st in a new colour over the previous colour yarn

Try These Spike Mosaic Crochet Patterns

Periwinkle Scarf by Rosina Plane, Crochet Society Box 43

Marvellous Mosaic blanket - Crochet Now 49

Inset Moasic Crochet

Next up is inset mosaic. It works in a similar way to spike mosaic, but it has more posibilities because it introduces chains into the mix, allowing you to work neater and more distinct patterns.

In inset mosaic crochet, the colour is changed every 2 rows. The first and last stitches of every row are always dc (UK terms)/sc (US terms) and will indicate the colour you are working on that whole row and the following WS row. Unless your pattern tells you otherwise, you should not fasten off between rows - simply carry the unused yarn up the side of your work.

This inset mosaic crochet technique is quicker and easier to do than it may seem at first, as there are no colour changes within rows. Colours are changed every 2 rows.

Edge chains: The 2nd and 2nd to last st of each row is a chain. These chains are required for an easy start to the border and, unlike the chains in the main pattern, are included in the st counts. Make sure you always miss the 1 ch immediately below each edge ch.

Some patterns include row-by-row written instructions, but we would recommend following the chart after the first few rows, as it gives a good representation of what your work should look like.
To minimise the number of ends to weave in, unused colours are carried up the side of your work.

How to read an inset mosaic chart

Read the chart from bottom to top, right to left (left to right if you are left-handed).
Work a 1 ch turning chain to begin each row. Turning chain does not count as a st.
The first and last sts of each row are always dc and indicate the colour you will be using for the whole row and the following WS row. You do not change colours within each row.
The pattern is created by leaving ch-sps in rows using the first colour and these are filled in with trebles in the next RS row in a contrasting colour, leaving the ch-sps unworked behind.
Any square without a symbol on the chart represents a dc.

Special stitches for inset mosaic

Treble 3 down (Tr3d): Working in front of ch-sp, make a tr in missed st 3 rows below

How to Start

Before you start, you should always have at least 1 row of foundation stitches to work from. This could be a foundation dc chain, or in the case of the shawl pattern shown below it will be the end of the ridged section. In this example we are going to follow this chart pattern, which is taken from the Encyclopedia of Crochet.

Start your work with your solid foundation base. Following the colours and stitches indicated (dc, ltr, ch) work your first row. Work into the previous row unless otherwise indicated.

Turn your work. On the WS you will work the same stitches again as indicated. So all dc in sts (dc and ltr) and ch over chains. You will have two rows in CC.

Change to MC, do not cut CC. Now work row 2 – working into the previous row unless otherwise stated. In our pattern, 1 tr is worked 3 rows below so this is worked over the 2 rows of CC to the last MC.

Now you can see the MC is joining the previously worked MC to create the colour effect. Work your WS as instructed.

Change back to CC and continue with the next row. Work the RS and the WS as before and don’t cut your colours.

Inset Mosaic Patterns to Try

Mosaic shawl from Encyclopedia of Crochet

Paper Chains Wrap, Crochet Now Issue 62

Buy digital edition - £6.99
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Woodland Trail blanket, Crochet Now Issue 73

Overlay Mosaic Crochet

Finally, let’s look at the overlay mosaic crochet technique, in which all stitches are worked on the right side, so yarn must be cut at the end of each row. This does create a lot of ends, but these can be tied together and trimmed to make a cute fringe, so no need to worry about weaving them in.

As with all mosaic crochet, there are no colour changes within rows. The base fabric is made up of rows of double crochet in back loop only and the pattern is created by working trebles into unworked front loops 2 rows below.

The first and last stitches of each row are always dc and indicate the colour you will be using for the whole row.
Unless otherwise stated in the pattern, fasten off at the end of each row; the first stitch on every row should be worked as a standing dc in the colour stated/shown at the start of the row.

Special stitches for overlay mosaic

Double crochet in back loop only (BLdc): Double Crochet in back loop only
Front Loop Treble 2 down (FLtr2d): Tr in front loop of st 2 rows down
Standing dc: With slip knot on hook, insert hook in first st of row, yrh, pul, yrh, draw through 2 loops on hook

Try these Overlay Mosaic Patterns

Cherry Blossom Wrap - FREE PATTERN: Download Now

Heart Over Heart Blanket by Rosina Plane, Crochet Society Box 43