History Of Crochet

Unknown Origins

Every story has a beginning, though some are less complicated than others. The origins of crochet are unclear and there’s no documentation to suggest where it may have started. However, many historians believe the craft originated in the Far East before becoming popularised in the west in the early 1800s.

Concrete Clues

The first printed crochet pattern dates back to the 1820s. Printed in Penélope, a Dutch women’s magazine, the pattern for a crocheted bag is our first concrete clue as to where the craft started. The pattern uses a tambour hook (a slim metal shank with a sharp hook fitted into a wooden or bone handle) that, according to crochet historian Lis Paludan, suggests that modern crochet was developed from Chinese needlework. Chinese needlework is an ancient form of embroidery that became popular in Europe in the 18th century and was referred to as Tambouring.

Tambouring used a fine needle with a hook to draw a loop of thread up and through a piece of fabric, before working it through another existing loop to create a chain of thread on the fabric’s surface – sounding familiar? Tambouring eventually evolved and the fabric was ditched. An evolved version of Tambouring, dubbed ‘crochet in the air’ by the French, was used to create intricate lace patterns with opulent silver and gold silk thread. The art was given a boost by Mademoiselle Riego de la Branchardiere, who was known for translating old style bobbin lace designs into crochet patterns. She published several pattern books throughout her life that many women used to replicate her designs. Mlle Riego is regarded to have invented what is now know as Irish crochet.

Luck of the Irish

Irish crochet was a lifeline for many in Ireland, helping people escape the potato famine of 1845-1850. People took up the craft between long farm hours and chores and, though living in poverty and squalid conditions, once finished the dirtied crochet pieces could be washed to revive their lustre and elegance. As the popularity and finery of lace grew around the world, overseas buyers began investing in Irish crochet to be used for delicate collars and cuffs. Crochet co-operatives were set up to help teach people the skill and many families used money saved from selling their lace to sustain their families through the famine or to fund emigration to countries including America, where the craft continued to popularise.

Royal Influence

Another key influencer in the history of crochet is Queen Victoria. She supported Irish crochet and chose to purchase it over more expensive, finer lace. Following the death of her beloved husband Albert, Victoria learned to crochet herself and in 1900, she crocheted eight scarves that were awarded to veterans of the Boer war. The scarves were received with great pride and worn as sashes by their recipients.

The 20th Century

Crochet has continued to garner attention and popularity throughout the 20th and 21st centuries. From the 1900s through to the1930s, attentions turned to creating home wares including afghans, rugs, tea cosies and hot-water bottle cosies, which have now become staples of a crocheter’s repertoire. The 1960s and 70s saw a rise in freeform crochet. People began to experiment with abstract and 3D shapes and styles that have had an impact on both modern art and fashion. In fact, it’s not uncommon tosee crochet on the catwalks or in pieces
from top fashion houses including Dolce & Gabbana and Michael Kors.

What next?

Crochet continues to grow in popularity, but with such a rich and varied history – who knows where and how it will develop next?