This month’s issue of Love Sewing features a super-easy top pattern from McCall's. There are only five pattern pieces! However, whilst this top is quick to make and easy to fit, fitting gathers into a bias-cut band can be tricky. For this top, I recommend choosing a soft fabric that will gather and drape easily, such as cotton lawn, silk or viscose. Read on for my guide to achieving a perfect finish on this gorgeous top.

THE BIAS-CUT NECK BAND

Cutting this pattern piece accurately is very important. The bias strip needs to be even along its length, so cut it out using a rotary cutter, ruler and cutting board. Make sure you mark all the dots on this strip and the CF.

Once the CB edges have been joined, and the one long unnotched edge has been pressed under as directed, trim and clip the CB seam allowance to reduce bulk.

GATHERS

Using the longest straight stitch on your machine, insert two rows of stitches at the neck edge on the front, the back, and the two sleeves. Try and sew the stitches so that they match on both rows; this means that when the threads are pulled up into gathers, little tubes of fabric will form.

When it’s time to attach the bias neck band, it is pinned and sewn first by placing the RS of the bias to the WS of the neck edge. It’s essential that you don’t stretch the bias strip as you attach it. Make sure you work from the RS of the neck edge. Pin the bias strip into place, matching the armhole seams to the dots. Working on each of the pattern pieces in turn, gently pull up the gather threads.

Spend some time making sure the gathers are evenly spaced. Place your pins vertically between the gathers. Try not to squash the gathers when you put your pins in.

Once all the gathers have been pulled up and pinned onto the band, it’s time to machine the two layers together. I rarely tack gathers – I prefer to sew with the pins in place, sliding the pins out as I come to them. I find this keeps the gathers in place better. When sewing on the
machine, keep pulling the gathers slightly to the left to keep the little tubes in place.

When the neck edge and the bias strip are joined, trim the seam allowance down to 6mm. It’s easiest to do this from the bias side, as it’s easier to see the stitching. Fold the bias strip to the RS and pin in place. The edge you folded under should touch the machine stitch. Pin.

To complete the neck band, machine stitch close to the folded edge, then press carefully. Ensure you press just the neck band and not the gathers.

About Alison Smith MBE

Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns, and you can also learn with her at one of her exclusive workshops. Find out more on her website www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

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